BEGINNING A NEW YEAR

     This has been a tough year for a lot of people.  Experts say the economy is showing signs of recovery, but you can't prove that by me.  This past year has been a struggle and I think 2011 will just bring more of the same.  Alright, so I am not an optimist, but I do call it like I see it.
     Be frugal my friends.  Together we can fix all those little problems around the home that cost you hundreds of dollars each year.  With your determination and my experience and good looks we will save you money.  As a bonus you will gain a great deal of satisfaction when you actually make a repair yourself. 
     My assistance costs nothing, and I know so many people in the construction industry that are very knowledgeable and are willing to answer any question you may have.  It's called giving something back...that warm fuzzy feeling.
     So, just drop me a line and describe the problems you are having with your home and I will respond.  Your questions may help others.  I am just an email away...

Happy New Year Y'all,
TD
tdmccurry@yahoo.com

PAINTING TRIM MADE EASY

     I was approached today by a lady that was having an adhesion problem with the newly painted trim in her home.  She said the "painter" had repainted all the baseboards, doors, door frames and crown moldings in her home and a few days later she noticed the paint was chipping off.  A closer inspection revealed that the new coat of paint could be scratched off very easily with her fingernail.  This is a very common problem and not an easy one to solve. 
     The major cause of adhesion related problems in repainting is poor surface preparation.  In this case the obviously inexperienced painter had applied latex paint over oil based paint.  Latex will not adhere directly to oil based coatings.  The proper way to apply latex over oil is to first clean the surface, prime it with "Kilz", an oil based primer and then re coat with either oil or latex.
     In this lady's case, the proper way to fix this problem would be to scrape the last coat of latex paint off the surfaces, prime and repaint...very costly and time consuming.  Stunned by the mere suggestion of my remedy, she asked me if I had a "plan B".  "I do", I said, "but it isn't as good as "plan A"...that's why they call it plan B".  Plan B involves lightly sanding the surface and applying oil base "Kilz" primer and then your final coat of paint.  Understand now that while the final coat of latex or oil will stick to the Kilz primer, you have merely covered up the adhesion problem and it may raise it's ugly head again.
     So, a word to the wise, be very cautious of painters.  In this economy, so many people that have lost their jobs have suddenly become painters.  There only experience is the room they just painted in their home.  Ask a lot of questions regarding their process and if you are in doubt, seek advice from your local paint store. Those guys know paint.  And again, if I can be of service...just ask.

Happy New Year, Y'all
TD
tdmccurry@yahoo.com

IS THERE ANOTHER MUSCLE CAR FAN OUT THERE?

     I know this is totally off the "handyman" subject, but I need to share this with you.  For the past five years I, with the help of some very talented people, have been restoring a 1970 Oldsmobile 442 W30.  The last of the true muscle cars.  This car has been repaired, replaced and repainted from one end to the other.  I am so excited now that it is finally finished.  On this post, I am sharing some before and after photos...hope you enjoy them.  If you are a "gear head" like me, let me hear from you.

TD
tdmccurry@yahoo.com

HOW TO REPAIR A BIFOLD DOOR

     Bifold doors are those accordion type doors that are normally found on closets and laundry areas.  The door has two panels and pivots on one side of the door frame.  These doors are very inexpensive and tend to break at the bottom or top where the pivot pins are located.  The bottom pivot pin is adjustable and the top is not.  If the pin itself is broken, simply remove the existing pin with a chisel and hammer by inserting the chisel between the door and the plastic pin housing.  Tap the chisel lightly and pry gently.  The pin and housing should slide out.  If the wood surrounding the pin is broken, apply a generous amount of Elmer's wood glue to both broken surfaces and use a clamp to pull the wood back into place.  Wipe off the excess glue with a damp cloth.  Let it set for 3 or 4 hours.  Remove the clamp and try to refit the pin and housing.  If it is loose in the hole, the hole must be filled. 
     I usually use "Bondo" which is an epoxy filler used in automobile body repair.  It is a two part material, meaning it must be mixed to make it harden.  You can buy a small can of "Bondo" at Walmart or Advance Auto.  Remove a small amount of "Bondo" from the can; about the size of a golf ball and mix thoroughly with a small amount of the hardener supplied with the kit.  A strip about a half inch long will do it...too much hardener and the compound will set up before you can use it.  Force the compound to the hole so that it is completely full.  Allow this to harden for at least 30 minutes and trim the excess from the door with a razor knife.  Bondo will not stick to painted surfaces so  it should be easy to remove.  Allow another hour or so for the compound to harden and drill another hole deep enough to accommodate the pin and housing in the same location.  Tap the pin and housing back into place and rehang the door.  Congratulations, you have saved about $150.   You are quickly achieving handyman status...and with it, all the associated benefits.  Now all your friends will want you fix everything that goes wrong in there houses.  Maybe this isn't such a great idea after all.
     As always, if you have a problem with this process or any other, leave a comment on this blog or email me and I will be pleased to help.

TD
tdmccurry@yahoo.com  

HOW TO REPAIR LEAKY FAUCETS

     Leaky faucets are so annoying...drip, drip, drip.  I wish I could give you an easy fix that would work for all brands.  Unfortunately, each brand and each model of a particular brand has a different repair kit.  The good news is, most of them can be repaired fairly easily and the even better news is, in some cases, if your faucet or shower valve is not too old, the manufacturer may send you the parts free. 
     If you want my help, send me the model and brand name with a photo if possible to my email address, and I will research it and get back to you with the part # and the proper procedure for making the repair.           
     Again, this information is free.  I just want to help you...refreshing isn't it. 

Later,
TD
tdmccurry@yahoo.com
      

MY OTHER PASSION

     Aside from my wife and children, I am absolutely in love with English sports cars.  Currently, I am restoring and 1967 MGB and it is nearing completion after sixteen months of hard labor.  When I bought the car, it was running but that was about it.  It needed everything.  I have reduced the car to boxes of parts.  The parts that could not be restored were replaced.  I have detailed the engine and engine compartment, painted the body and the wire wheels and installed new carpet and leather seats.  Next week, I will be installing the upholstered panels in the interior and trunk...and then I will be done.  I am so excited!  What makes it even more exciting is that my wife shares my enthusiasm.  Probably by the first week in January, we will be cruising around in a "new" MGB that doesn't have a top or a heater; it was originally a Hawaii car.  If the weather doesn't warm up by then, my wife and I will share a blanket while we cruise.  Now that is passion.
     I will be posting before and after photos on this blog when I have finished the car.  Let me know what you think.  Maybe some of my readers share my enthusiasm and we can chat.

Later,
TD

 

HOW TO INSTALL A NEW TUB SPOUT

     Installing a new tub spout is not difficult.  There are basically only two types.  One is held in place by a set screw and the other screws on.  You can tell the difference at a glance.
     Look underneath the tub spout with a mirror.  If it is mounted with a set screw it will be located underneath the spout near the wall.  Just loosen the set screw with a hex wrench or allen wrench and slip it off.  If it does not have a set screw, it is the screw-on type.  Just unscrew it.
     Most of the ones you buy from Lowes and Home Depot are mounted with a set screw.  If the one you removed was the screw-on type and you need to install one with a set screw it will require a little more effort.  After you have removed the screw-on tub spout you will notice a pipe extending from the wall.  It will be necessary to cut that pipe off to the dimension given in the new tub spout installation instructions.  Sand the end of the pipe so it doesn't have any rough edges.  Put a small amount of dishwashing liquid on the end of the pipe and slip the new spout over the pipe, tighten the set screw and you are finished.  It should only take about 10 minutes.
    

HOW TO REPAIR OR REPLACE YOUR SHOWER HEAD

     In my opinion, a weak shower spray is not very refreshing.  Hard water has a way of clogging the small holes in your shower head.  "CLR" and "Lime Away " are both products that are designed to remove lime deposits.  Just let your shower head soak in the liquid for a couple of hours and a stronger shower spray will be restored.  A weak spray may also be attributed to the design of your shower head.  The more holes it has in it the weaker the spray will be, so the smaller heads usually result in a stronger spray. 
     If you are just tired of the appearance of your existing shower head or if you can't get the shampoo out of your hair, it may be time to replace it.  Your old shower head and the pipe it's mounted on can be removed at the same time...just turn it counter-clockwise.  I may be necessary to use a small pipe wrench, but a great deal of pressure will probably not be required.  The new head may or may not come with an extension pipe and cover.  If it doesn't, buy one...they are inexpensive.  Next, wrap both ends of the pipe with teflon tape, 3 layers are sufficient, and thread the long end of the extension pipe into the threaded connection in the wall.  When it becomes difficult to tighten, stop when the short end of the pipe is pointing downward.  Slide the extension pipe cover over the pipe to cover the hole in the wall.  Now, thread the shower head on the extension pipe.  Don't forget the gasket between the shower head and the pipe.  Tighten the head with an open end or adjustable wrench.  If the head has no flat surfaces to fit a wrench, wrap a piece of cloth around the shower head coupling and use a small pipe wrench.  Be gentle, these surfaces scratch very easily.
     The process requires about 15 minutes to complete...that includes the 5 minutes required to get it out of the blister packaging.  Congratulations, you just saved another $50 by doing this yourself.

Merry Christmas to all,
TD

PS  Let us not forget the reason for the season...the celebration of the birth of our Lord and Savior, Jesus Christ.

UPDATING YOUR SHOWER ON A BUDGET

   Showers tend to look a bit discolored after a period of time.  Hard water has an adverse effect on the finish unless you dry them off after every use.  If your shower valve works properly you don't need to replace the entire valve to improve the appearance.   No need to call a plumber!  
     You can purchase a new trim kit to do just that.  The kit includes a new face plate and handle for the shower valve, a shower head and extension pipe, a tub spout and a "toe touch" drain assembly, all for just over $100.  They are available in different finishes making it easy to change from say...polished brass to brushed nickel.  Home Depot has several kits in stock for both Moen and Delta shower valves.  Model 89434 for the Delta 600 series, sku # 607006 and model 89435 for the Moen 2600 and 2700 Chateau series, sku # 607268, are available in several different finishes.  If your shower valve is not one of these models, they may still be available through the manufacturer. 
     These kits are easy to install.  My next several posts will deal with the installation.  Happy plumbing!

Later,
TD

HOW TO CHANGE AN INTERIOR DOOR LOCK SET

     I apologize for not posting last night.  I know all of you were extremely disappointed.  We were late getting home and I was just too tired to think.  I'll try not to let it happen again.
     Do you not just love improving your home?  The sense of accomplishment you gain from a job well done, especially when you have never done it before, is awesome.  So let's begin installing that new lock.
      There are a variety of interior residential lock sets on the market today.  Lowes and Home Depot have a wide selection of them, featuring such brands as Kwikset, Schlage, and Baldwin.  Like everything else, the more you pay, the better the lock.  You can spend $10 or $60 each depending upon style and quality.  Interior lock sets are made for keyed, privacy and closet/hallway applications.   
     Some lock sets vary in the way the two knobs are attached to the door.  On most inexpensive lock sets, begin by removing the screws on one side of the lock.  They are located on the face plate that surrounds the knob.   Now, gently rotate the knobs and pull them away from the door.  This will expose the hole in the door and the striker.  On the edge of the door there are two screws that hold the striker in place.  Remove them and the striker will slide out.  Some of them may be a bit stubborn, if they are, insert a screwdriver through the hole in door, against the striker and pull toward the edge of the door.  Note that the rounded part of the striker on the edge of the door is facing the metal striker plate mounted on the door jamb.  Install the new lock by reversing this process and once again you are done.  It should take about 10 minutes to change a lock set.
     If you can't determine how to dismantle your lock, post a comment on this blog or send an email to tdmccurry@yahoo.com and I will respond.
     I don't know what I will talk about next, but I promise you, it will be equally as riveting.

Later,
TD

HOW TO CHANGE INTERIOR DOOR HINGES

     I am a bit of a perfectionist and one thing that really bugs me is paint on door hinges.  The last person that painted the door didn't stay in the lines.  If it bugs you too, you have two options.  You can remove the paint from the existing hinges or change the hinges. 
     If your doors are painted with oil based paint, lacquer thinner will remove a small amount of paint from the hardware.  If latex paint has been used, Goof Off will remove the paint easily.  A bit of low tack masking tape around the door will protect its finish.  If your hinges are totally painted,  it's time to replace them. 
     Hinges come in several sizes and designs; 3 inch, 3 1/2 inch, 4 inch, round corners, square corners, polished brass, brushed nickel, stainless steel, oil rubbed bronze...  The most efficient way to match what you have is to remove one and take it to Lowes or Home Depot and match the size and corner radius exactly.  Once you match the hinges, the screw holes will be drilled the same.  To remove one hinge: if your door has three hinges, take out the center one; if your door has two hinges, open the door at least 90 degrees so you have access to all the screws and put something under the lock side of the door to stabilize it.  Now you can remove the screws without the door falling.  Use a razor knife to cut around the edge of the hinge so that it doesn't peel the paint off the door when you remove it.  Tap the back side of the hinge lightly with a hammer and straight screwdriver. 
     With the new hinges in hand, tap it in place gently with the pin side up.  Do not remove the pin from the hinges.  Do not use a screw gun to install these new screws and do not over tighten.  Screw guns and cordless drills with screwdriver bits turn too fast and will strip out the screw holes in the door.  Do one hinge at a time.  Never remove all the hinges from the door.  It is as easy as that.  It should take about 10 minutes per door.
     My next post will deal with changing the lock set, because I know when your partner sees the new hinges, the lock will be next.  You gotta love 'em, right?
     Any questions or comments, please post to this site or email me at tdmccurry@yahoo.com

Later,
TD

HOW TO HANG A HEAVY PICTURE OR MIRROR

     I have found the best picture hanger ever.  It is sold at Home Depot and it is called a french cleat with wall dog mounting screws.  The Home Depot numbers are as follows: model # 55316, internet # 202341629, and store sku # 177707.  It even comes with its own level. 
    It is so easy to install and supports up to 200 pounds.  It has a long aluminum bracket that you screw to the drywall.  Trim the brackets with a hack saw or tin snips if necessary to at least 2 inches less than the width of the picture frame.  Just fit the level bubble into the wall bracket and use as many wall dog mounting screws as they include in the kit.  You do not even need to fasten it to a stud but I always do just for peace of mind.  The other part of the bracket is also long and screws to the backside of the picture or mirror frame.  Then you just hang the picture so one bracket fits into the other.  The picture may be moved from side to side a few inches if required.   It's so easy my wife could do it, but she won't as long as she has me.
     I hope this works as well for you as it has for me.

Later,
TD

PS  If you have any questions regarding this or any other topic concerning home repair projects, please leave a comment on this blog or you may email me at tdmccurry@yahoo.com. 

HOW TO REPAIR A TOILET THAT IS LEAKING SEWAGE AT THE BASE

     Toilets have a wax seal between the toilet and the drain line that it is mounted upon.  When this seal fails whatever you flushed is going to come out onto the floor and or penetrate the flooring itself.  In short, if the flushables are not going down the drain. You have a problem that needs immediate attention.
     This is probably the most difficult of the toilet repairs only because the toilet is heavy.  You may need help removing the toilet from the floor flange, that is if you can get another person in there with you. 
     Begin by turning the water off at the wall or floor on the left side of the toilet and flush the toilet holding the handle down until all the water has been drained from the tank.  It is also necessary to remove all the water from the bowl...I know, now you want to call a plumber.  But if you really want to make a name for yourself, let's do it! 
     Disconnect the supply line at the valve.  While you are down there, you will notice two plastic caps on the base of the bowl where it adjoins the floor.  Remove these caps with a knife or small straight screwdriver.  Now, remove the fasteners you just exposed.  You are ready to lift the toilet off the floor.  Have a plastic container of some kind, perhaps a storage bin, no more than six inches deep and the length and width should be large enough to accommodate the base of the toilet.  You are about to discover why you need the plastic container.  There is always some water left in the bowl and if you tilt it while lifting it the water will spill out from the bottom.  Have some old towels handy too.  If you have to do this by yourself, face the tank while straddling the bowl and lift between the bowl and the tank.  The toilet is pretty well balanced at that point. 
     After you have removed the toilet, you will notice a 3 or 4 inch pipe projecting up through the floor with a round flange and two mounting bolts attached to it.  The source of the problem is now visible.  The wax seal is that mess on top of the flange.  You must remove all the wax and possibly a black plastic ring that is part of the seal with a small putty knife...now you are really thinking about calling that plumber, but stick with me, it is almost over.
     There are two kinds of wax seals and you will need them both.  One has a black plastic ring called a horn  moulded with it and the other does not.   These seals are available at Lowes, Home Depot, and most hardware stores.  Place the seal with the plastic ring down first.  It should fit snugly between the mounting bolts.  Now, place the other seal directly on top of the first one.  One seal would probably do the trick, but two is better.  We don't want to do this again anytime soon. 
     Now tilt the toilet to the side and remove any old wax from around the drain hole, also remove any caulking from the perimeter of the base.  Lift the toilet over the wax seals and line it up on the flange by viewing the mounting bolts through the holes in the base of the toilet.  Lower the toilet.  You will feel the toilet compressing the wax...that's a good thing.  It is a good idea to sit down on the toilet facing the tank and make sure it has seated properly on the floor.  Next, put the fasteners or nuts back on the mounting bolts, connect the supply line and turn the water on.  Seal around the base of the toilet with a good quality, clear silicone caulking.  You are done!  Aren't you proud...now place all the tools in the plastic bin, throw them away and wash your hands 10 times.
     The entire process should take about an hour.   

Later,
TD

  

HOW TO REPAIR A TOILET THAT FILLS SLOWLY

     There you stand.  You have just flushed your toilet and it is taking its sweet time filling the tank.  But you have to wait it out because circumstances require a second  flush...just no delicate way to say it.
     Toilets have flush valves inside the tank that allow water to flow in when the tank begins to empty.  Older toilets have metal flush valves that use a large metal or plastic ball as a float.  This float arm is attached to the valve and actually begins to close the valve as the water level rises.  When the water level reaches a pre-determined depth, the ball lifts the arm to the point that the valve closes.  When the float valve is defective, several things can happen; the tank fills slowly, the valve leaks above the water line or the valve takes forever to actually stop the water flow into the tank.  This is usually caused by corrosion inside the valve.  But relax, replacing the flush valve is not difficult.
     First turn off the water to the toilet.  The valve and water supply line is located to the left of the toilet and is mounted on the wall or on the floor.  Turn the valve handle clockwise to close the valve.  Now, flush the toilet and hold the handle down until all the water has been drained from the tank.  Use a sponge to remove any remaining water in the tank.  Disconnect the water supply line at the tank.  Then, use a wrench to remove the valve retaining nut from the bottom of the tank.  Now you can remove the entire valve assembly from the tank. 
     I usually use Fluidmaster brand flush valves.  They are easy to install, they resist corrosion, there is no arm and ball float assembly to deal with and they are readily available at Lowes, Home Depot and most hardware stores.  The installation is so easy.  Just remove the rubber gasket from the package and slip it on the threaded end of the valve.  Insert the threaded end in the hole in the bottom of the tank.  Thread the new nut on the valve while holding it firmly in place.  Do not overtighten...it's plastic.  Now you can reconnect the supply line and turn the water back on.  The tank will begin to fill and the "doughnut" type float on the top of the valve will begin to rise and the water will shut off.  If the water level is too high or too low, there is an adjustment on the side of the valve.  Congratulations, you're done and you have saved another $75.  This may be the beginning of a new career in plumbing...let's not get carried away. 

Later,
TD

HOW TO REPAIR A TOILET THAT RUNS WHEN IT WANTS TO

     I was standing at the mirror in my bathroom brushing what's left of my hair, when my toilet began to run on its own.  About every 3 or 4 minutes it would run for about 30 seconds.  Now that's only about a pint of water, but in 24 hours it will use about 40 gallons...in thirty days that's 1200 gallons.  I'm glad everyone's toilet doesn't leak.  But not to worry, it's easy to fix.
     First you must determine the source of the leak.  Usually the flapper in the bottom of the tank is allowing the water to leak out.  To confirm this, close the valve on the water supply line that is located on the left side of the toilet.  This line either comes up through the floor or through the wall.  Turn the valve handle clockwise to stop the water flow into the toilet. 
     Remove the tank lid and note the water level in the tank.  If the flapper is defective, the water level in the tank will be noticably lower in an hour or so.  If in fact the water level is lower, the flapper must be replaced.  Leave the supply line valve in the closed position and flush the toilet.  Hold the handle down until all the water has drained from the tank into the toilet bowl.  Next, disconnect the chain or cord from the handle arm and remove the flapper from the bottom of the tank. If you have rubber gloves, use them.  Some flappers are nasty when they begin to deteriorate...especially the black ones.
     The flapper is usually made of soft rubber and is held in position by two arms projecting from the edge of the flapper.  Simply remove the flapper by disconnecting the arms from the pins on the vertical stand pipe.  Clean the rim of the hole in the bottom of the tank with a damp cloth and make sure the rim is smooth.  Take the defective flapper to Lowes, Home Depot or your local hardware store and match it to one of the wide assortment of flappers they have in stock.  It may also be helpful to know the brand name of your toilet.  Pay attention to the details of the old flapper.  While at a glance, they all look the same, they are not.  The length of the arms and the diameter of the flapper are crucial. 
     Install the new flapper by slipping the holes in the flapper arms over the pins in the stand pipe.  Take note of the length of the chain that connected the defective flapper to the arm on the handle and adjust the new chain to the same length.  Attach the chain to the handle arm and turn the water back on.  After the tank fills, flush the toilet and let it fill again.  Your leaky toilet should be repaired and you only spent $6. 
     Now you can take your spouse out to a nice restaurant with the $74 you saved.  You will be appreciated beyond your wildest dreams and your position as the perfect spouse will be confirmed.

Later,
TD

HELP IS ON THE WAY !

     When it comes to household repairs, it is so much easier to "have it done".  The downside is, it is very expensive.  Locally, painters charge $20/hour; carpenters, $45/hour; electricians, $70/hour and plumbers and air conditioning contractors, depending upon how desperate you are, the sky is the limit.
     But you know, a great deal of the repair projects you encounter around the home are just not that difficult.  To quote a friend from New York, "its not rocket surgery". 
     With this blog I intend to help homeowners with small household projects and give advice on dealing with contractors when necessary on the larger ones.  And the best part about it...I do not want your credit card number and you do not need to buy my book or any of my do-it-yourself videos.  Wow, is that refreshing!
     I have been a general contractor for over 35 years and now I am almost retired and at times a bit bored.  This blog will help me as much as it will help you.
     My next post will show you how to repair a toilet.  You will feel so good when you fix that toilet for $6 rather than paying a plumber $80 for thirty minutes work.  You can take your spouse out to dinner!  Plus, just think of the "good spouse" points you will earn...better than skymiles.

Talk with you soon,
TD